Knitting machine



June 27, 1939. H. M ADAMS KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 14, 1934 12Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Hart- M ACI ams i ATTORNE S.

June 27, 1939. H MCADAMS 2,164,119

KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 14, 1954 12 Sheets-Sheet 2 J JE.

INVENTOR.

100 HEII'IH M Adams ATTORNEY June 27, 1939. H. MCADAMS 2,164,119

KNITTING MACHINE Fil'ed June 14, 1934 12 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR.

HBT'PH PI -Adams ATTORNEYS.

June 27, 1939. H. M ADAMS KNITTING MACHINE l2 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed June14, 1934 III Ii/ 0 o INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY June 27, 1939. H. MCADAMS 2,164,119

KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 14, 1954 12 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR.

Har'r'H M AdB'ITLS ATTQRNEYS.

H. McADAMS 2,164,119

June 27, 1939.

KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 14, 1934 l2 Sheets-Sheet '7 Harry M AflamsATTORNEY Jww 7 H. M ADAMS 2,164,119

KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 14, 1954 12 Sheets-Sheet 8 Lu Y I; Tx plalJam. Saws.

INVENTOR.

H ar- EH M Ad. am 5 ATTORNEYS? June 27, 1939. H. M ADAMS KNITTINGMACHINE Filed June 14, 1954 12 Sheets-Sheet 9 INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY 1111111211939. HMCADAMS 2,164,119

KNITTING MACHINE FORT) (.ou nsgs wmarv caonseo INVENTOR.

; EB M- 'Ad am 5 llll lllllll June 27, 1939. H. MCADAMS 2,164,119

KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 14, 1934 12 Sheets-Sheet ll Jig. El.

INVENTOR.

Hal-T M Adams ATTORNEYS.

BY v

12 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 27, 1939. H. McADAMS Filed June 14, 1954 PatentedJune 27, 1939 PATENT OFFICE KNITTING MACHINE Harry McAdams, Reading,Pa., assignor to Nolde and Horst Company, Reading, Pa., a corporationApplication June 14, 1934, Serial No. 730,666-

4 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in knitting machines i i Theprimary object of the invention is the provision of an whereon aplurality of feeds are provided and which embodies improved means forknitting a wide variety of patterns in seamless tubular fabric, suchashosiery; the improved machine embodying improved means to provideselective reverse plating, horizontal striping, and selective patternstriping and designing such as set forth in my co-pending application,Serial No. 662,351.

A further object of the invention is thexprovision of an improvedhosiery knitting machine where on seamless. hosiery may be knitted; said.m'achine using a plurality of feeds in combination with selectivewrapstripe color within color patterning. I

A further object of this invention is the provision of an improvedbinder and cutter mechanism for knitting machines.

A further object of this invention is the provision of improved reverseplating mechanism adaptable for a plural feed knitting machine.

Other objects and advantages of this invention will be apparent duringthe course of the following detailed description.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, andwherein similar reference characters designate corresponding partsthroughout the several views,

Figure l is a front elevation of the improved knitting machine withcertain parts thereof omitted, such as the bobbin support and yarntension- ;ng means associated therewith.

Figure 2 is a side elevation of the knitting machine shown in Figure 1with certain parts omitted for the purpose of clarifying the improveddetails of the machine.

Figure 3 is a rear elevation of the improved knitting machine withcertain portions omitted.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary side elevation of the machine at the oppositeside from that shown in Figure 2, with portions of the knitting machineomitted to better illustrate other details.

Figure 5 is a vertical cross sectional view taken through the cylinderof the knitting machine, showing more particularly the improved yarnwrapping mechanism associated with the double feed knitting machine. 7

Figure 6 is a cross sectional view taken through the knitting machineabove the wrap-ping finger supporting head.

Figure 7 is a plan View of the latch ring of the improved knittingmachine, showing yarn improved knitting machine feeding, guiding, andcutting and binding details associated with the double feed knitting machine.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary side elevation of the knitting machine showingcertain operating details within the machine for controlling the yarnfeed fingers.

Figure 9 is a developed view of the needle, cam and yarn feed andwrapping finger mechanism.

Figure 10 is a bottom plan view' of the sinker cam ring showing the camconstruction for controlling the double feed of the sinkers and sinkerjacks of the reverse plating attachment.

Figure 11 is a top plan view of the bottom ring of the sinker ringconstruction showing certain guide grooves and details essential for theimproved double feed knitting machine.

Figure 12 is a, perspective view of an improved binding and cuttingmechanism which is used on the double feed knitting machine of this.application immediately following the second yarn feed. Figure 13 is aperspective view of the binder and cutter mechanism of Figure 12, afterthe same has acted to cut the yarn and bind it.

Figures 14 and 15 are cross sectional views taken substantially on theirrespective lines in Figures 13 and 12.

Figure 16 is a fragmentary rear view of the bottom of the knittingmachine, showing more particularly the main pattern drum and certaincontrolling details of the same.

Figure 17 is a developed view of the cam layout upon the lower rearpattern drum.

Figure 18 is a developed view of the cam layout for the upper rear drum.

Figure 19 is a developed view of the cam lay-' out upon the reverseplating drum.

Figure 20 is a developed view of the pattern lay-out upon a front lowerdrum of the machine.

Figure 21 is a side elevation of a stocking, showing a portion of theplating and selective pattern wrapping which may be provided in a.stocking, with the improved machine of this application.

Figure 22 is a fragmentary inside view of a section of the stocking,showing more particularly the plating, wrapping yarns and the floatportions of the latter.

Figure 23 is an enlarged section of the fabric of Figures 21 and 22,showing the face thereof and the knitted stitches of the various yarnsforming the plating, reverse plating, and cornproved knitting machine,and by way of example a piece of fabric which may be knitted thereon,the letter A may generally designate a knitting machine which mayinclude a frame B; cylinder means D for operating the cylinder anddriving machine; a. set of needles E; a set of jacks F cooperating withthe needles E. Means G may' fabric P, and it is to be understood that a.wide variety of reverse plated, wrap striped and designed seamlessfabric may be knitted upon-the improved machine, as desired.

The improved knitting machine is generally of the Banner type, asdisclosed in U. S. Patent 933,443. Its frame B has a supporting bed 25upon which the cylinder 0 of .the machine is revolubly mounted, as shownin Figure 5. The means for rotating and oscillating the cylinder C areof the usual type. The means D for driving the cylinder includes a mainshaft 2|, shown in Figure 3, provided with the usual gearing and clutchmechanism connected with the cylinder gear 22, shown in Figure S. Thedrive mechanism also controls a gear 23 conventionally known as a 104"gear.

The cylinder C may be of the character setforth in my co-pendingapplication, Serial No. 662,354. It is provided with the usual needlegrooves for receiving the needles and jacks of the sets E and F.

The needles of the set E, individually indicated at 32 are preferably of.the latch type, and half of them are provided with long butts 40 andthe remainder with short butts 4|. The short butts are indicated insolid black in Figure 9 of the 1 drawings. The set of jacks F cooperatewith the needles of the set E, and of course an individual jack 3| isprovided for each needle 32. The jacks are of the character set forth inmy above identified co-pending application, and may be provided with 'adesired arrangement of frangible butts so'that they may be selectivelyactuated for elevating predetermined needles in order that variousstriping or design providing yarns may be fed thereto by the means G tobe subsequently describeI The Jack actuating means H preferably includesa pair of cam supporting blocks 50 and shown in Figure 1 of thedrawings, each of which is provided with a vertical series of slotsarranged radially to the cylinder. Independently movable horizontallypositioned cams are slidable therein for actuation upon the butts of thejacks 3| of the set F in order to control said jacks with relation tothe needles. Preferably eight slots are provided in each cam block,although the number may vary as desired.

For the knitting of the sample of fabric P shown in Figures 21, 22 and23, the block so is provided with upper and lower jack actuating cams 52and 53. The block 5|, on the other hand, is preferably provided withsimilar cams 54 to 60 inclusive. Each of the jack'actuating cams in theblocks 50 and 5| is provided with an angular sloping head adapted toride into and out of engagement with respect to the butts of said jacks,at difierent levels, for obvious purposes.

The cams 52 to 60 are normally spring urged into butt engaging and jackelevating position, and may be moved out of such position by means ofsuitable levers controlled off of pattern mechanism to be subsequentlydescribed.

' The jack actuating means H furthermore includes a pattern control drum6!, shown in Figures 2, 3, and 16 of the drawings, having a. patternlay-out, designated in the developed view shown in Figure 17, for thepurpose of actuating the various jack cams thru a system of levers inaccordance with the teaching set forth in my copending applicationsSerial Nos. 558,798 and 591,689. The lugs of this drum comprising thelay-out may be detachable and removable for the purpose of suiting thelay-out to any desired pattern to be knitted in the fabric.

The drum BI is actuated in a step-by-step movement oil of the cylinderdriving means of the machine-in the manner set forth in my copendingapplications above mentioned. Briefly the drum has a ratchet wheel 64with sixty teeth about its circumference. The gear wheel 23 is providedwith diametrically opposed I lugs 65 thereon, shown in Figure 8 of .thedrawings, positioned to actuate a lever 56, shown in Figure 4. Thislever is keyed upon a shaft 61 which has an arm 58 keyed therewith, asshown in Figure 2,

' controlling a pawl 69. The pawl operates upon the teeth of the ratchetwheel 64 in a manner which has been set forth in my above identifiedco-pending applications for the purpose of intermittently advancing thedrum 6 I.

Means is provided to cut the advancing mechanism of the drum 6| out ofoperation, that is, to prevent rotation of the drum 8|. This means maybe generally indicated at S. It has been described in detail in myeo-pending applications above referred to, and will not be specificallyde scribed herein. It is sufficient to say that this mechanism isactuated ofi the pattern chain 18, shown in Figure 1 of the drawings,for selectively throwing the drum in or out of operation, as the patterndemands.

Referring to the yarn wrapping attachment as adapted for a double feedtype of knitting machine, such as herein provided, by reference toFigure 9 of the drawings it will be seen that a main set of stitch cams19 is provided, which may actuate the needles of the knitting machinefor producing fabric knitted with one or more yarns. As shown in thedrawings a feed device or finger 80 is provided for feeding a bodyyarnSE to the needles in advance of the knitting point produced by thestitch cams 19, and another feed device or finger 82 may also beprovided for feeding another body or main knitting yarn 83. Other feedfingers may also be provided at this point, such as a feed finger 8| forfeeding a heel and toe knitting yarn 85. Of course the usual picks maybe provided in cooperation with the stitch cam arrangement 19.

Another set of stitch cams 88 may be provided in cooperative relationwith the'needles of the set E, consisting of needle elevating and'needlelowering earns 89 and 90 respectively, with which may be associated yarnfeed devices or fingers SI and 92, corresponding respectively to feedfingers 80 and 82 above mentioned, for needle feeding yarns 93 and 94,which may correspond respectively to the yarns 8i and 83. The

usual picks 94 and 95 may be duplicated at the tachment and means foractuating the same, substantially as set forth in my co-pendingapplication, Serial No. 591,689. Generally the same includes a bracket90 rotatably supporting a bobbin stand and drive gearing therefor. Thebobbin stand has a rotary spindle SH in axial alignment above thecylinder. A yarn feed finger head or support I02 is keyed to the shaft9I as set forth in my above identified co-pending.

applications, and the yarns extend from the bobbins in the bobbin standdownwardly through suitable passageways in the head I02. The head I 02isprovided' with slots vertically provided therein, wherein are disposedindividual yarn guide and feed fingers I I I. They are oscillativelyfulcrumed thereon. At their lower ends said fingers are positioned inspaced relation above the hook ends of the needles, and may move fromthe inner to the outer side of the circular line of needles for thepurpose of wrapping the yarns thereon upon the needles. Each guidefinger III at its lower end is apertured to receive the particular yarntherethrough. Other details of op eration and arrangement of these feedfingers are similar to that described in my copending application,Serial No. 662,354, and need not be specifically described herein.

The means for actuating the fingers comprises, as is best shown inFigure 6 of the drawings, a pair of cam supporting blocks I43 and I44,and a third cam supporting block I45. The blocks I43 and I44 aresecurely mounted upon a pivoted supporting arm I45 Each of the blocksI43, I44, and I45 are suitably slotted to slidably receive horizontallypositioned cams. of these slots may vary, but as shown in the drawingsfour are provided in each cam block, since it is intended, in thepresent machine, to provide four levels of butts upon the'yarn feedfingers I I I. It is shown in Figure 1 of the drawings that thecam'block I 43, and also the cam block I44, are each provided with fourcams. For the particular pattern P, however, as can be seen from Figure9 of the drawings, only the two lower cams I46 and I41 of the cam blockI43 are active; the two upper cams I48 and I49 of the cam block I44 areactive, and the two upper cams I50 and I5I are provided in the two upperslots of the cam block I45 at respectively the same levels as the camsI48 and I49, for purposes to .be subsequently described.

It can readily be understood from Figure 6 of the drawings that springsnormally urge the cams of the blocks I43, I44, and I45 away from thebutts of the yarn feed fingers III. In order to move the cams intooperating relation with the butts of the fingers III, levers I58 arepivoted at I59 for the cams of the block I43; levers I60 pivoted at I6I'are provided for the cams of the block I 44, and levers I62 pivoted atI63 are provided for the cams of the block I45. The pivoted support I45is of the same nature as the similar support provided in my aboveidentified co-pending application 'Serial No. 662,354, and need not befurther described. The cam actuating levers I58, I60 and IE2 havepivoted therewith connecting rods I65 suitably supported or guided uponthe machine. The latter are connected with suitable bell crank leversI61, shown in Figures 2 and 6 of the drawings. The upper The number endsof these bell crank levers are offset at various distances for actingagainst the? pins or other means upon the ends of the connecting rodsI65. The opposite ends of the bell crank levers I61 are pivotallyassociated with length adjustable push rods I10, or with otherconnecting rods HI and actuated oif of suitable patterning means upondrums of the knitting machine to be subsequently mentioned. 'For theconnecting rods I10 plungers I 12 are provided, reciprocable withinindividual passageways of an eccentrically supporting block I13. Thisblock is mounted to turn upon a horizontal axis, and in a manner and fora purpose more specifically set forth in my co-pending applicationSerial No. 662,354. These plungers I12 are actuated by suitable lugs orin suitable depressions provided in an upper rear drum I 15 providedupon the knitting machine, as shown in Figure 2 of the drawings. Ontheother hand the connecting rods Ill. are pivoted to a suitable leverI16'pivoted intermediate their ends at I11 upon the knitting machine;said lever I16 being connected by a suitable connecting rod to one of anumber of levers I18 pivoted at I19 upon the knitting machine, andactuable ofi' of a lower front drum I80. 7

The drums BI and I15 are synchronously actuable through gearing I82.

The drum I15 is driven in the same direction 7 and at the same speedratio as the drum BI, and the feed of patterning yarns to the needles iscut out under certain circumstances by moving the plunger mounting blockI13 in a manner set forth in my above described co-pendlng applicationSerial No. 591,689.

It should be particularly noted that the cams mounted in the blocks I43and I44 are providedfor directing variously colored 'or otherwisecontrasting yarns upon the needles of the knitting machine in advance ofthe main knitting cam set 19, for producing wrap striping or otherselected pattern designing in the. fabric being knitted, such as setforth in my co-pending applications above mentioned. On the other handthe cam' block I45 is so mounted that the cams thereof actuate the yarnfeed fingers of the wrap striping mechanism for the feeding of variousyarns upon selected needles of the knitting machine in advance of thestitch cam set 88 and succeeding the stitch cam set 19, so that the wrapstriping or patterning yarns may be fed upon the'nee dles of theknitting machine for knitting into succeeding courses of the fabricbeing knitted.

The operating means for each camm'ounted I in the blocks 50 and 5|includes a lever I9I pivoted at I92 upon the side of the machine,intermediate its ends, as shown in Figure 2 of the drawings;These-levers I9I have one end thereof riding on the drum 6I, and theopposite end is suitably connected 'by a connecting rod I93 to an end ofa bell crank lever I94. The latter levers are pivotally mounted uponsuitable brackets upon the machine, in two series below the two sets ofjack actuating cams, and in such position that the upper ends of thebell crank levers I94 oper ate against pins of said cams. Suitablesprings are provided for normally urging the cams or other devices,which said bell crank levers actuate, in-the direction of the cylinderof the machine. The lugs on the drum 6| maintain the cams actuated offthe levers I94 inoperative, and when the drum ends of the levers I9Idrop into depressions on the drum 6I between the lugs, the springs ofthe various cams and devices which are actuated off of the bell cranklever I94 are urged into operative relation to the various parts whichthey actuate. Mainly the cams of the blocks 59 and 5| are provided toraise and lower the jacks and needles of the cylinder of the knittingmachine into and out of operative relation with respect to the stripingand design patterning yarns controlled off of the feed finger head I02.The specific sequence in which the cams are actuated to produce thespecific fabric -P will be subsequently mentioned.

The levers l9! have individual springs I98 to keep the ends thereof inengagement with the drum 6|. Means I99 actuated off a lever 290, whichis in turn actuated oil the drum I80, is provided for throwing all ofthe levers I9l out of operating relation with respect to the drum GIduring certain knitting operations.

The horizontal striping mechanism may be the same as set forth in myabove identified copending application Serial No. 662,354, for the.

purpose of feeding differently colored or otherwise contrasting yarns tothe fabric. The yarn variation may be selective, and a large number ofyarn changes may be effected with the horizontal yarn striper or changemechanism. The striping or plating yarns may be provided in any desirednumbers at the two feeds of the machine, as can readily be appreciated.Thus, at the main feed of the machine additional feed fingers than thoseshown at 80 and 82 may be provided, for horizontal yarn change, andsimilarly at the auxiliary feed other additional feed fingers than thoseshown at 9| and 92 may be provided for selective horizontal yarn change.In Figure 7 is shown a latch ring having a, large number of yarn feedfingers. They are pivoted upon a common pivot and spring urged in theusual manner into feeding position with respect to the needles. As shownin Figure 8 of the drawings the usual connecting wires 2l6 are providedfor the yarn feed fingers upon the latch ring, the lower ends thereofbeing connected in the usual manner tolevers 2 I1 and actuated in theusual manner. When horizontally striping the fabric the feed fingerscontrolling the horizontal yarns are selectively disposed in operatingand feeding relation to the needles of the machine by means of levers220, as shown in Figures 3 and 8 of the drawings, pivoted intermediatetheir ends. At their forward ends they are connected with the Wires 2i6, and at their opposite ends they are controlled ofi a pattern drum223 for the purpose of rocking the proper levers 220 in order to throwthe desired yarns into and out of operating relation to the needles, forthe obvious purpose of providing horizontal striping. This horizontalstriping attachment has been more specifically detailed in my aboveidentified copending application Serial No. 662,354. It has not beenbrought into play in the production of the sample of fabric P.

The means for advancing the drum 223 is the same as described in myabove identified copending application Serial No. 662,354, and generallyincluding a ratchet wheel 224 keyed on the same shaft as the drum 223.The ratchet wheel 22 i is intermittently advanced by pawl 22!? mountedon a pivoted lever 229, as shown in Figure 8. The lever 229 is actuatedoff a lug (provided in desired numbers), shown at 239 on the "104 wheel23. A. detent 23L in the shape of a bell crank lever, is pivoted on themachine, as

M for actuating the same.

. plating.

this detent lever 23! is maintained through an operating lever 260 oflof suitable lugs upon a pattern chain 246. The pattern chain 246 isadvanced step by step in synchronism with operation of the knittingmachine, by a suitable pawl 25!, adapted to act upon the teeth of aratchet wheel 253 keyed on the same shaft as the sprocket wheel of thechain 246. As has been more specifi- 1 cally described in my aboveco-pending application the pawl 25l is actuated in synchronism withrocking movement of the conventional oscillating segment 2 of theknitting machine, so that both pattern chains 18 and 246 are advancedfor the shaft as the drum 223, and in a manner and for a purpose whichis more specifically set forth in my last mentioned co-pendingapplication.

Referring generally to the reverse plating attachment of the improvedmachine A, the same consists of a set of web-holders K and the meansThis reverse plating attachment is.generally the same as set forth in myco-pending application Serial No. 662,354, except the same has beenaltered to reverse plate the yarns in those courses of stitches whichare knitted in the fabric at the extra feed upon the improved doublefeed machine, so that reverse plating is accomplished in succeedingcourses knitted in the fabric of the machine at a single revolution ofthe cylinder of the machine.

It will be noted from Figure of the drawings that the web-holdersindicated at K are provided with butts acted upon by suitable camsprovided upon the cam ring 216. These sinkers or webholders are mountedin the usual manner for radial sliding movement in individual grooves ofthe web-holding bed ring 211. Individual jacks 218 are provided for theindividual web-holders K, in each groove of the web-holding bed ring 211for controlling the position of the web-holders and the propertensioning of the body and plating yarns in order to effect normal andreverse The jacks 218 each include the horizontal bar portion 280 uponwhich the respectively associated sinker is slidably mounted. The bar289 has a shoulder which upon radial inward movement of the jack engagesthe sinker so that .it will be pushed radially inward for reversing thenormal plating. This bar portion 280 is provided with a depending butt28! which limits the radial outward movement of the jack. Each jack.also includes an upstanding butt 282 which is cam actuated off of thecam ring 216 in a manner which will be subsequently mentioned. The jack219 also includes the depending bar or leg 294 along which butts 285 areplaced at de sired levels and adapted for actuation by selective camdevice of well known construction. This selective cam device consists ofa plurality of longitudinally slidable plunger cams 286, shown in Figure1 of the drawings, suitably mounted for horizontal movement upon theknitting machine in the vicinity of the main knitting cam set. The cams286 are located at different levels for actuation upon the butts 285 ofthe jacks 218 in order to vary the reverse plating pattern, as desired.

The cams 286 are selectively controlled by a lug arrangement upon arotary pattern drum 281. The manner in which these lugs are placed uponthe drum may vary widely, although it is preferred to fabricate the drumso that the lug arrangement may be made selective, for patternvariation. The drum 281 is mounted upon a base 288 eccentrically pivoted(not shown) so as to move the lugs of the drum out of active cooperationwith the cams during knitting of the heel and toe, and partway outduring knitting of the sole. These are conventional features 'and neednot be further described. The drum is intermittently advanced by a pawland ratchet arrangement comprising a ratchet wheel 290 upon the drum asa part thereof, shown in Figure l, actuated in usual manner, as has beenset forth in my above identified co-pending applications Serial Nos.662,354 and 703,483, and in a manner well known in the art to which thisinvention relates. It is sufficient to say that the pawl advan'ces thedrum 281 a distance of one tooth for each engagement of a lug 65, shownin Figures 4 and 8 of the drawings, against the pawl advancing leveragemechanism of the reverse plating attachment, as shown in Figure 4. Thusthe pattern drum 281 is advanced a distance equal to the distancebetween the centers of adjacent pattern lugs for each two knittedcourses of the fabric. This arrangement may vary if desired.

Referring again to feed of the striping and patterning yarns uponselected needles of the machine, off of the fingers I II, thesaid yarnsare assisted in being wrapped upon the needles in a manner similar tothat set forth in my copending applications, Serial Nos. 591,689;619,779, and 662,354. A latch ring I30 is pivoted in the usual manner atI3I. As shown in Figures 5, 7 and 9 of the drawings a guide wire I33 isattached upon said latch ring and curved closely along the inside of theline of knitting needles at a location below the hooked ends thereof,when the latter are lowered, to prevent the yarns fed from the fingersIII, as actuated ofi of the cams of the blocks I43 and I44, frombecoming entangled with the web-holders and needles other than thoseintended. Yarn guide wires or bars I34 and I35 are respectively providedupon the latch ring for the series of cams in the blocks 50 and I, inorder to cooperatively assist the yarns in Wrapping upon a desirednumber of needles elevated by any of the cams of the respective blocks50 and 5|, in accordance with the selective arrangement described in myabove identified co-pendihg applications. Each of these wires is mountedupon a plunger I36, slidable in suitable bearings provided upon thelatch ring, and spring urged.

to a normally retracted relation with respect to the feed of yarn to theneedles. These plungers are of the nature set forth in my abovementioned co-pending application Serial No. 662,354. The yarn guidewires I34 and I35 are adapted for simultaneous operation into eitheroperative or inoperative relation to the knitting needles. This may becontrolled by means of a bell crank lever I40 having a top plate I42operable against the plungers I36. The bell crank lever I40 is pivotedon the same axis as the bell crank levers I94 abovedescribed andactuated thru a.suitable lug arrangement upon thelower front patterndrum I80, as shown in Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings.

Inasmuch as it is desired to provide means for for the said striping andpatterning yarns must be provided to cooperate with those yarn feedfingers I I I which are actuated off of the cams I50 and I5I of the camblock I45. Accordingly I provide a guide wire 300 which is similar tothe wire I33 abovementioned, having a curved bar portion extendingclosely along the inside of the line of needles at a location below thehooked ends of the needles-when the latter are lowered, to prevent yarnfrom the feed fingers III becoming entangled with the web-holders andneedlesother than those intended. Similarly, a yarn guide wire orcontrol member 30I is provided, r'eciprocably mounted upon a suitableplunger I36 similar to the plungers I36 above mentioned, and actuable bymeans to be subsequently described into and out of operating relationupon those striping and patterning yarns which are fed to the-needles ofthe knitting machine off the feed fingers III as controlled by the camsI50 and I5I. and guide or control wires or members may be provided forthe knitting of the patterning yarns with. a color within colorarrangement at the extra feed of the knitting machine, in the samemanner as is provided for the knitting of color are produced at theregular feed of the knitting machine. Only one set of yarn fingercontrolling cams and yarn guide wire controlling arrangements have beenprovided at the auxiliary feed of the knitting machine, to avoid acomplicated illustration and description of the knitting machine.

As is shown in Figure 2 of the drawings the plunger I36 is actuated by abell crank lever 302 and a connecting rod 303 operating off one of thelevers I18 of the pattern drum I80. The lug arrangement on the drum I80,to be subsequently mentioned, throws the plunger I36 inwardly for thepurpose of moving the control wire 30I into -yarn guiding position inorder that the yarns which are fed onto selected needles by means of thecams I50 and I 5| will be properly held in position to take the requiredelevated needles. Thus, it can 'be seen that striping and other designproducing yarns may be selectively provided in the courses of fabricwhich are knitted at the auxiliary or extra feed of the knittingmachine.

Referring to the reverse plating mechanism, and particularly the camconstruction of the sinker ring cam plate 216, the same is altered overconventional construction in that means is provided to reverse plate inthe knitted courses produced by the yarns at the extra feed in the samemanner as'the previouslyknitted course produced by the knitting yarns atthe main set of stitch cams. .In Figure 10 is shown a cam arrangementupon the under side of the sinker ring cam plate 216. The direction ofrotation is designated by the arrow, and the position of the reverseplating cams 266 for actuating the sinker jacks 218 is also shown. Thecam ring 216 is of course held stationary in the usual manner, and thebutts 282 of the sinker jacks 21-8 are guided through a channel 3I5between the cams BIG and 3I1 to bring said jacks to a position where thebutts 282 are positioned equi-distant from the center of the cam ring.The dot and dash line3I8 designates the path that the butts If desiredadditional cam sets within color in those courses of the fabric whichwill travel after riding through the channel 3|5. Of course the reverseplating cams 286 are then selectively actuated off of the lugs of thepattern drum 281, and this throws the jacks whose sinkers are to reverseplate into the groove 320; the remainder of the jacks riding with theirbutss on' the are designated by the dot and dash line 319, The sinkercam 32| of course radially moves the sinkers outwardly, and at the camprojection 322 those jacks which were pushed in by the reverse platingcams 286 will be actuated (by the cam projection 322) for a radialinward movement, which will likewise move the respective sinkerstherewith and cause reverse plating of yarns to be accomplished at theknitting point, due to yarn tension variation. Those sinker jacks whichwere acted upon by the cam projection 322 to cause reverse plating uponpredetermined needles will then ride along an arcuate line, designatedby the dot and dash line 324 in the drawings, and the jacks not actuatedby the cams 286 will continue to ride along the path indicated by thepreviously designated dot and dash lines 3| 8. The jacks riding alongthe path 324 will then enter a cam groove 326 and continue along thispath until they are actuated by the cam projection 32'! where reverseplating is again efiected of those yarns 93 and 94 fed onto the needlesat the knitting point succeeding the extra feed fingers 9| and 92. Thusit should be noted that the same jacksactuated upon by the reverseplating cam projection 322 in the same revolution of the knittingmachine cylinder will also be acted upon by the cam projection 327, sothat the stitch loops of the yarns at both feeds of the knitting machinewill be similarly reverse plated in those two courses which are knittedduring any revolution of the knitting machine cylinder. Of course theusual pressure cams are provided for depressing the jacks whose buttsare not actuated upon for reverse plating, that is, those that ridealong the dot and dash lines 3|8. The cams 3|6 and 3|l will then bringall of the butts into the groove or channel 3| 5 in readiness for aselected actuating of the jacks by the reverse plating cams 286 for aselected reverse plate knitting of'stitches in succeeding courses of thefabric.

The sinker cam 32| is duplicated at a diametrically opposed point on thecam ring 216, at 32M, This cam 32, however, is radially movable so thatit may be radially cammed inward during knitting of the heel and toe inorder to miss the sinkers, or rather the butts thereof, so that thesinkers will held the stitch and prevent the riding thereof upwardlyupon the needles. This sinker cam 32| is shown in its proper positionfor knitting during full circular rotation of the cylinder, but whenknitting the heel and toe it is moved to the dotted position.

shown in Figure 10, in a manner to be subsequently described.

The cam 32| has a top plate or bar 339 designated in Figures 1, 2 and ofthe drawings. which at the free end thereof .has a depending pin 33|spring urged at 332 so that the sinker cam 32| is normally positionedinoperative, that is, in the dotted position shown in Figure 10. The

, supporting bar 330 has a notch 334 therein, shown The yarn feedfingers 9| and 92 have outwardly projecting ends, and below them thefree end of an operating lever 340 is disposed. This operating lever 340is pivoted at (MI and upon upward movement at said free end it willthrow the feed fingers 9| and 92 into position for feeding yarn to theneedles of the knitting machine, that is, in the position shown inFigure 9. Upward movement of the outer ends of the feed fingers 9| and92 will also throw the aforesaid lever 336 upwardly, since a portionthereof is disposed in resting relation above the outer ends of the feedfingers 9| and 92, and this in turn will throw the cam 32| intooperating relation upon the sinkers, that is, in the full line positionshown in Figure 10 of the drawings. The parts thus affected are shown inFigures 1, 2 and 10 of the drawings. As is also shown in Figure 2 of thedrawings the lever 340 is connected for operation through a connectingrod to one of the drum actuated levers H8. In addition to this dualfunction of the lever 340, the same has another function, namely, inthrowing the pick 94 'disposed at the additional stitch cam arrangement88 from its normal operative position indicated in dotted lines inFigure 9, to an out of the way position indicated by the full lineposition thereof, in Figure 9. This operation is performed through theintermediary of a bell crank lever 356 actuating against a pin 35| onthe arm of the pick 94; the other end of the bell crank lever beingconnected by a rod 352 to the operating lever 340 as shown in Figure 2of the drawings. Thus actuation of the lever 340 will perform the triplefunctions of moving the feed fingers 9| and 92 into inoperativeposition; move the sinker cam 32! into inoperative position, and movethe pick 94 into operative position with respect to the butts of thoseneedles active during cylinder reciprocation.

The additional stitch cam block 88 is pulled out of operating relationwith respect to the needle butts during knitting of the heel and toe ofthe stocking. To that end said stitch cam device 88 is radially movablewith respect tothe cylinder. It has a depending pin end 368, shown inFigure 1 of the drawings, actuated by means of a lever 36L shown in bothFigures 1 and 2 of the drawthe cam block assemblage 99 into operatingrelation with the butts of the needles, that is, into the position shownin Figure 9 of the drawings.

An improved yarn cutting and binding device T is provided, shown indetail in Figures 12, 13, 14 and 15 of the drawings, and in positionupon the machine in Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings, for the purpose ofcutting and binding the yarns 93 and 94 during the knitting of the heeland toe of the stocking, although this improved yarn cutter and bindermay be used in any other environment upon a knitting machine or whereverdesired. It includes an additional safety factor in the secure bindingof the yarn without injury or liability of breakage thereof. It consistsof a supporting frame 400 fixedly secured upon a block 4|l| which may bedetachably connected to any part of the knitting machine. In the presentinvention it is connected upon the top of the latch ring, as shown inFigures l, 2 and 7 of the drawings. A vertically slidable frame 403 isin turn carried in the frame 400.. This vertically slidable frame isshown in Figures 12, 13 and 15 of the drawings. It has attached theretoa horizontal bar 405, which is channeled on one side for slidablyreceiving a reciprocating bar 406. At its inner endthe bar 405, which issecured to 40'1, shown in Figure 15, is provided with a depending cutterand binder portion 410, which is shown in cross section in Figure 14.Portion 410 has a sharp cutter edge 411, and upon its side facing theinner periphery of the latch ring it is provided with a binder groove412. Upon vertical movement of the slidable frame portion 403 theportions 405 and 410 move therewith. The said parts are limited in theirdownward movement by an adjustable screw 415, shown in Figure 15, sothat the lower cutting and binding end of the cutter and bindermechanism may be lowered or elevated to any desirable level suitable forthe purpose for which the cutter and binder mechanism is adapted, in anyparticular case.

Cutting and binding arms 416 and 411 respectively are pivotally attachedupon a pin or shaft 418 at opposite sides of the cutting and bindingtion 410, and the cutter arm 416 is provided with a sharp edge 420cooperating with the edge 411 to sever yarn as the cutter bar 416 ismoved from the position shown in Figure 12 to the position shown inFigure 13. The binder arm 4", on the other hand, is provided with arounded edge 421- in a co-operating relation with an adjacent roundededge 422 of the bar 410 to squeeze the yarns 93 and 94 therebe'tween ina binding relation', in contrast to a cutting action. A spring, shown at425 in Figure 7 of the drawings, may assist on the pivot pin 418 inmaintaining the cutting and binding arms 416 and 411 into properposition against the opposite sides of the cutting and binding bar 410.The bar 406 is connected at its forward end by a pin 42! to the upperends of the cutter and binder bars 416 and 411, on a fixed axis, so thatforward sliding of the bar 406 will open the arms 416 and 411 withrespect to the bar 410, and rearward sliding of the bar 406 will bringthe arms 416 and 411 into cutting and binding relation with the yarn ofthe bar A spring 430 assists in pulling the cutting and binding armsinto the cutting and binding positions shown in Figure 13.

An auxiliary binding arm 435 is pivoted uponthe pivot pin 418. Below thepivot 418 it operates in the binder grgwve 412 of the bar.4l0 in orderto more securely birfd the yarn against release, as is shown in Figure14 of the drawings. The upper end of the auxiliary binder-arm 435 isspring urged at 431 into the binding position shown in Figures 13 and140i the drawings. As is shown in Figure 13 the portion of the auxiliarybinder arm 435 above the pin 418 is provided with a large opening 436which' will permit the spring ,431 to bring about the binding actionward sliding of the operating bar 406.

With respect to the matter of actuating the binder and cutter mechanismT, inflthe particular environment in which it is used upon'the im- Theyare movable proved machine A, it is to be noted that the slide bar 406which actuates the cutting and binding arms is provided with a laterallyextending pin 440. This pin, as is shown in Figures 1 and 2 of thedrawings, is operated upon by a lever 441 pivoted at 442 upon the frameof the machine A. A lever 443 is pivoted between its ends upon a post443 at a'pivot 444 in order to operate against the lever 441 for forcingthe cutting and binding bars and arms 416 and 41! and 435 from a closedto an open, and then to a closed position for cutting and binding yarnwhen the said lever 444 is actuated through suitable linkage 446 off oneof said levers 118, by

riding of the latter from a low point on the drum 180 upwardly upon alug and then down to the low point again.

Referring to the fabric, P, as generally shown in Figures 21, 22 and 23of the drawings, the same represents a seamless knitted stocking. Thegeneral design, as shown in Figures 21 and 22, is to provide reverselyplated diamond-shaped areas 500, which are stepped from course to courseto provide diamonds extending forty wales or needles in width and eightycourses in length or height. those skilled in the art the knitting yarns81 and 83, which may be designated as gray and black yarns respectively,are used to knit stitches in the fabric in one course, the needles forsuch course being manipulated off the main stitch extra stitch camarrangement 88. As previously explained, due to the fact that the camarrangement on the under side of the sinker cam plate is adapted toreverse plate at the two points adjacent the main stitch cams l9 andauxiliary feed stitch cams 98, the reverse plating of the sets ofplating yarns B1-83 and 93-414 will be the same in the two coursesknitted during any single revolution of the cylinder. It is thoughtunnecessary to dwell in detail upon the lug arrangement of the reverseplating control drum 201 but such has been shown in a developed view inFigure 19. The direction of rotation of this drum is shown in Figure 19.With reference to Figure 9 of the drawings, the butt lay-out upon thesinker controlling jacks is shown, wherein the butts of the sinker jacksshown in solid black are short butts and the remainder, showing opensquares, are full length butts. The lugs shown in solid black in Figure19 are full length lugs and those shown in cross section have been cut.The full length lugs of the drum 281 will through the plunger cams 28Eactuate both the long and short butt sinker jacks, but the short lugs ofthe reverse plating control drum will only act upon the long sinker jackbutts, by limiting the throw of the plunger cams 286. In the layoutshown in Figure 19 the drum 28'! rotates in the direction of the arrow.,The lug 501 will actuate the uppermost presser cam 206 for operatingagainst the jack butts 285 shown in Figure 9. The timing is so set thatthe fabric willbe knitted through .two courses while the lug 501 isactive. This starts the reverse plating at the top of the diamond at502' (see Figure 21). Two courses are knitted at each revolution of thecylinder and then the drum 281 is advanced so that the next lugs operateupon the two uppermost presser cams for actuating the sinker jackshaving butts at the two uppermost As can readily be understood bylevels. The reverse plating of the diamond proceeds in this manner, aswell understood in the art, and since the lugs on the drum increase innumber and in stepped relation, the width of the reverse plated diamondwill increase until the point 505 is reached (see Figure 19), at whichpoint the lugs of the drum are actuating all of the presser cams 286forreverse plating upon all of the sinkers of the machine (in theparticular fabric shown). It has been set forth in my co-pendingapplication Serial No. 703,483 that an increased throw of theintermittent advancing of the reverse plating drum is necessary at timesin order to bring the pattern drum even, in its rotatable relation withrespect to the fabric being knitted. This need not be further described.It is sufllcient to say that the invention so far as the reverse platingmechanism of the present invention is concerned inheres in the abilityof the cam mechanism upon the sinker cam cap to permit the sinker jackswhich have been actuated by the'presser, cam to maintain their positionafter reverse plating at the main knitting cams, so that a similarreverse plating of the yarns may occur at the second feed in the nextcourse, during the same revolution of the cylinder.

It will be readily understood that many varied reverse plated designsmay be provided upon the fabric knitted upon the machine A, sinceobviously the lug arrangement of the drum 281 is capable of widevariation, and the butt'arrangement upon the sinker jacks of the sinkerring are capable of practically unlimited variation.

The needle wrapping yarns controlled. by the attachment G are shown asred and yellow. The yellow yarns are diagonallyknitted to provide wrapstripe diamonds, and the red yarns are spotted in the centers of thediamonds, producing the so-called color within color effect.

Referring further to the needle wrapping of yarns upon selectiveneedles, a plurality of series or groups of needle operating jacks areprovided for producing the striped diamonds and other patterning. Atypical group of jacks in such a series is indicated in Figure 9 whereintwo jacks 525 are provided with long butts 526 at the uppermost level;jacks 521 at each side thereof being provided with similar long butts528 at the next lower level. The next outermost jacks 529 in each seriesareprovided with long butts 530 at the next lower level. The nextoutermost jacks 53I are provided with long butt jacks 532 at the nextlower level. The next outermost jacks 533 are provided with long butts534 at the next lower level. The series is completed with -a pair ofjacks 535 having long butts 536 at the lowest level. All of the jacks inthis series with the exception of the two jacks 525 are provided withshort butts at the same level as the long butts 526. Similarly all ofthe jacks in each series with the exception of the jacks 535 areprovided with short butts at the same level as the long butts 536 ofsaid jacks 535.

The cams mounted in the blocks I44 and I45 control those fingers III ofthe wrap yarn finger supporting head I 02 which direct the yellowstriping or patterning yarns tothe predetermined elevated needles forproducing the striped diamonds shown inthe fabric P. The cams I48 andI50 are positioned at the same level, and the cams I40 and I5'I arepositioned. at a lower level. The cams I48 andl50 actuate yarn feed"fingers I I I for directing the feed of yellow striping yarn therefromonto the long butt needles.

The said fingers III are provided with butts at the level of the camsI48 and I50 in order to accomplish such feed of the yarn to the longbutt needles. The lower cams I49 and I5I are for the purpose ofdirecting and feeding the yellow striping yarns from feed fingers IIIonto the short butt needles which are out of operation during knittingof the sole. That is the reason for providing separate feeds of yellowstriping yarns to the long and short butt needles.

The cams I46 and I4! are disposed in the,

block I43 at levels below the levels of the cams for the feed of yellowstriping yarns. The cam I46 actuates those yarn feed fingers of thestriping mechanism, designated at III**, which have butts at the levelof said -cam I46, for the purpose of feeding the red spotting patterningyarns from said feed fingers III onto the long butt needles. The cam I41 at a level below the cam I46 is adapted to actuate those feed fingersIII which have butts at the level thereof, for the feed of the redspotting or patterning yarns to the short butt needles. The patterningmechanism for actuating the cams I46 to I 5| inclusive is such that thecams I46, I48 and I50 will be pushed in to actuate the yarn feed fingerscontrolled thereby for feed of yellow and red patterning yarns to thelong butt needles during knitting of the instep of the stocking, and atsuch time the remaining cams I41, I49 and I5I will be withdrawn in orderto avoid placement of the patterning effects produced by. the yellow andred yarns in the sole of the stocking being knitted. The patterning camsfor actuating the said cams I46 to I5I inclusive are shown in Figures1'7 and 20 of the drawings, and will be subsequently mentioned.

It will be obvious from Figure 9 that each typical jack series isprovided with three fingers for feed of patterning yarns thereto, toproduce striping, spotting, or other design effects. The central ofthese three yarn feed fingers controls the red yarn, and the two at eachside thereof control yellow yarns. Of course it will be understood thatany other colored yarns may be used in lieu of those mentioned, sinceyellow and red have been selected merely by way of contrasting example.

The cam 52 mounted in the block 50 is actuated off of pattern mechanismon the lower drum 6| of the machine, and when thrown in engages only thelong butts 526 of the jacks 525 of each typical jack series for thepurpose of elevating saidjacks 525and respective needles in the cylindergrooves thereabove,'as shown in Figure 9 of the drawings, so that saidelevated needles will cooperate with the cams I46 and I 41 and the feedfingers III and III and the guide member or wire I34 for the feed of redspotting yarns, to produce the knitted stitches 600 in the fabric,indicated in Figure 23 of the drawings. The lower cam 53 in the block50, on the other hand, only actuates the long lower butts of the jacks535, for the-purpose of elevating the needles thereabove in order totake the red spotting yarns from the yarn feed fingers III and IIIascontrolled, by the cams I46 and I41, and in accordance with the feedof such striping yarns to needles, in cooperation with the yarn uidewire or member I34, as has been set forth in my co-pending applicationsabove referred to,

'for the purpose of producing red spotted areas I 60I, in patterningeffects in the fabric P, in other striped diamond areas at differentcourses other than those courses in which thestitches 600 oc-

